How the hell do you get a flywheel off and the harmonic balencer?

[Vinnie]

HELP!

I am trying to get the front of the crank off, the part that harmonic
balancer is on with the timing chain cogs.
So I can pull the crank out.
I have already smashed the balancer part where the pulley bolts to. :(

Is the end part replaceable?
How much is a new crank usually?

Its on a Mazda 1600 engine.

Also I can not get the flywheel bolts undone, is there a trick to this?

Any ideas appreciated.

[Bushy Pete]

> I tried that, the block keeps trying to turn over on the floor, this is
with
> a long pole attached to the ratchet for leverage.
>

So stick another long piece of wood (or similar non bendy
thing-um-y-jig!)into one of the empty cylinders and use it as the other side
of the lever to match the long pole you are already using. If you use a
length of waterpipe then add a couple of rags to protect the cylinder wall.
Or something solid to bolt the block to will work. Sometimes this is simply
a couple of wood blocks, a pipe clamp and the corner post of the garage.

Before you do it, get someone to film it for funniest home movies!

Hope this helps,
Pete

[Clockmeister]

"Vinnie" <destef1@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:VYc0e.9014$C7.6670@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
> Thanks Pete,
> That sounds like it might just work!
> Let you know how it goes!
>
> "Bushy Pete" <please@reply.to.group> wrote in message
> news:d1rkbr$4sd$1@bunyip2.cc.uq.edu.au...
> > > I tried that, the block keeps trying to turn over on the floor, this
is
> > with
> > > a long pole attached to the ratchet for leverage.
> > >
> >
> > So stick another long piece of wood (or similar non bendy
> > thing-um-y-jig!)into one of the empty cylinders and use it as the other
> side
> > of the lever to match the long pole you are already using. If you use a
> > length of waterpipe then add a couple of rags to protect the cylinder
> wall.
> > Or something solid to bolt the block to will work. Sometimes this is
> simply
> > a couple of wood blocks, a pipe clamp and the corner post of the garage.
> >
> > Before you do it, get someone to film it for funniest home movies!
> >

Give the Sheik a call lol...

[Noddy]

"Clockmeister" <no-one@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:4241ece4$1@duster.adelaide.on.net...

> Give the Sheik a call lol...

Lol :)

He's been quiet lately. I imagine things aren't going well at his service
depot :)

--
Regards,
Noddy.

[Vinnie]

"Justin Thyme" <pleasedontspamme@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:fkm0e.19$VZ5.622@nnrp1.ozemail.com.au...
>
> "Vinnie" <destef1@bigpond.com> wrote in message
> news:F9b0e.8828$C7.41@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
> > HELP!
> >
> > I am trying to get the front of the crank off, the part that harmonic
> > balancer is on with the timing chain cogs.
> > So I can pull the crank out.
> > I have already smashed the balancer part where the pulley bolts to. :(
> >
> > Is the end part replaceable?
> > How much is a new crank usually?
> >
> > Its on a Mazda 1600 engine.
> Mazda NA 1600?


Yep its an NA 1600

Its in a ford econvan, What other cars are these in?

> Front pully comes off simply by putting a socket or ring spanner over the
> bolt in the middle. First peel back the soft metal washer that acts as a
> lock. You will need to lock the crank to do it - i use a small piece of
> chain bolted into one of the clutch bolt holes, and bolted to the block. A
> bit of force is needed, but normally not a great deal. I've never needed
to
> put pipe over the spanner for more leverage.
> >
> > Also I can not get the flywheel bolts undone, is there a trick to this?
> lock the crank with a bit of chain as above. The bolts are normally fairly
> stiff, but should be able to be undone without resorting to pipe.
Sometimes
> it helps to jerk them or give it a few light taps with a hammer.
> >
> > Any ideas appreciated.
> >
> >
>
>

[Kieron]

On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 22:39:08 GMT, "Noddy" <dg4163@_nospam_dod.com.au>
wrote:

>
>"Clockmeister" <no-one@nowhere.com> wrote in message
>news:4241ece4$1@duster.adelaide.on.net...
>
>> Give the Sheik a call lol...
>
>Lol :)
>
>He's been quiet lately. I imagine things aren't going well at his service
>depot :)

or maybe he's overwelmed with work to come hear to post :)

[David, not to be confused with all the other David]

> Or something solid to bolt the block to will work. Sometimes this is
simply
> a couple of wood blocks, a pipe clamp and the corner post of the garage.
>
> Before you do it, get someone to film it for funniest home movies!
>
> Hope this helps,
> Pete
>

I see visions of the garage post collapsing, closely followed by the garage.
As the dust settles we get a close-up of the block with flywheel still
firmly attached and the OP standing there with the extension bar in his hand
and dumb expression on his mug.

[D Walford]

Vinnie wrote:
>
> "Noddy" <dg4163@_nospam_dod.com.au> wrote in message
> news:42414733@news.comindico.com.au...
> >
> > "Vinnie" <destef1@bigpond.com> wrote in message
> > news:F9b0e.8828$C7.41@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
> > > HELP!
> > >
> > > I am trying to get the front of the crank off, the part that harmonic
> > > balancer is on with the timing chain cogs.
> > > So I can pull the crank out.
> > > I have already smashed the balancer part where the pulley bolts to. :(
> >
> > Nasty.
> >
> > > Is the end part replaceable?
> >
> > I don't know exactly what part you're referring to, but most parts can be
> > replaced.
>
> Its the part of the crank that protrudes the block, it has a 2 sets of cogs
> on it, timing chain cog and oil pump chain, then at the very front it has a
> 4" disc that the main pulley bolts to.
> >
> > > How much is a new crank usually?
> > >
> > > Its on a Mazda 1600 engine.
> >
> > No idea.
> >
> > 50 bucks from a wrecker should get you a grindable shaft for an older
> > engine.
> >
> > > Also I can not get the flywheel bolts undone, is there a trick to this?
> > >
> > > Any ideas appreciated.
> >
> > I presume the engine is out of the car?
>
> Engin is out of the car, head is off and pistons have also been slid out the
> top.
> >
> > Take off the sump and place a hammer handle (or a large block of wood)
> > inside the engine between the crankshaft and the block so it prevents the
> > crankshaft from turning, and remove the bolts. You can use the same
> > procedure to remove the crank pulley bolt (if it has one), but you'll
> > probably need a proper puller to remove the pulley itself.
> >
>
> I tried that, the block keeps trying to turn over on the floor, this is with
> a long pole attached to the ratchet for leverage.
>

Do the bolts have lock tabs?
They shouldn't be tight enough to do what you describe.



Daryl

[Vinnie]

"David, not to be confused with all the other Davids."
<mail-swap@telstra.com> wrote in message
news:d1t8s4$al7$1@nnrp.waia.asn.au...
> > Or something solid to bolt the block to will work. Sometimes this is
> simply
> > a couple of wood blocks, a pipe clamp and the corner post of the garage.
> >
> > Before you do it, get someone to film it for funniest home movies!
> >
> > Hope this helps,
> > Pete
> >
>
> I see visions of the garage post collapsing, closely followed by the
garage.
> As the dust settles we get a close-up of the block with flywheel still
> firmly attached and the OP standing there with the extension bar in his
hand
> and dumb expression on his mug.
>

LOL!
>
>

[budgie]

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 13:36:33 +1100, "David, not to be confused with all the
other Davids." <mail-swap@telstra.com> wrote:

>> Or something solid to bolt the block to will work. Sometimes this is
>simply
>> a couple of wood blocks, a pipe clamp and the corner post of the garage.
>>
>> Before you do it, get someone to film it for funniest home movies!
>>
>> Hope this helps,
>> Pete
>>
>
>I see visions of the garage post collapsing, closely followed by the garage.
>As the dust settles we get a close-up of the block with flywheel still
>firmly attached and the OP standing there with the extension bar in his hand
>and dumb expression on his mug.

That picture deserves the caption: "Bugger! It's never done that before!"

[RodP]

In article <E2t0e.9639$C7.2604@news-server.bigpond.net.au>,
Vinnie says...

> Thanks for all your help guys,
>
> Got the flywheel of and the pulley off tonight! Yeah!
>
> Made me feel 16 again, the way those tight nuts cracked like a virgin!

Ouch. If your nuts cracked at 16, I'd seek medical help!

Cheers,
Rod.

[kevcat]

Vinnie wrote:
>
> HELP!
>
> I am trying to get the front of the crank off, the part that harmonic
> balancer is on with the timing chain cogs.
> So I can pull the crank out.
> I have already smashed the balancer part where the pulley bolts to. :(


you need a gear puller
you will see that there are two(sometimes 4) bolt holes in the front of
the balancer
the gear puller has one large centre bolt that sits against the crank
and then you put two bolds through the puller into the bolt holes in the
balancer
by turning the puller's centre bold it will pull the balancer off

these are an interference fit and are very tight and almost impossible
to bash off with a hammer



> Is the end part replaceable?
> How much is a new crank usually?
>
> Its on a Mazda 1600 engine.
>
> Also I can not get the flywheel bolts undone, is there a trick to this?

using a good quality socket set or ring spanner(not a supercheap
special)
put the socket on the bolt, making sure it is square on the bolt head
give the handle a sharp whack with a hammer/block of wood
this will usually be sufficient to "crack" the bolt loose
if the bolt doesn't loosen with 3-4 hits then don't continue, you may
end up breaking the bolt or rounding the bolt head
but I haven't had this happen, they always came loose



Kev

[athol]

kevcat <kevcat@dodo.com.au> wrote:

> you need a gear puller
> you will see that there are two(sometimes 4) bolt holes in the front of
> the balancer

Or 3, like on an SBC.

--
Athol
<http://cust.idl.com.au/athol> Linux Registered User # 254000
The state of Australia's infrastructure is a national disgrace.
I'm a Libran Engineer. I don't argue, I discuss.