Hosted by: Eyo Technologies Pty Ltd. Sponsored by: Actiontec Pty Ltd
Sikaflex for car body repair? [Archive] - Aussie Phorums

PDA

View Full Version : Sikaflex for car body repair?


Ext User(efffemm@f-m.fm)
07-03-2006, 10:43 AM
Some fatso walked on roof of my van, pushing it in. The glue bonding
the reinforcing ribs to the roof sheetmetal broke. So I jacked up
the ribs after putting some construction adhesive on to stick it back.
I left it for four days, but after half an hour driving, the adhesive
came apart. So I looked for something better. Sikaflex make an
"automotive adhesive" for this sort of thing. Then I asked the bloke
in the builders market. He said for car bodies, even the "automotive"
Sikaflex is a risk, and you must get the really high-strength stuff
costing about $25 a cartridge.
Has anybody used various grades of Sikaflex, and got a recommendation?

Ext User(Noddy)
07-03-2006, 12:33 PM
<efffemm@f-m.fm> wrote in message
news:1141688303.933736.66560@v46g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com...

> Has anybody used various grades of Sikaflex, and got a recommendation?

Sikaflex works well for this type of application, and is often the exact
product used in this role.

--
Regards,
Noddy.

Ext User(Rheilly Phoull)
07-03-2006, 06:03 PM
"Noddy" <dg4163@dodo.com.au> wrote in message
news:440ce135@news.comindico.com.au...
>
> <efffemm@f-m.fm> wrote in message
> news:1141688303.933736.66560@v46g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com...
>
>> Has anybody used various grades of Sikaflex, and got a recommendation?
>
> Sikaflex works well for this type of application, and is often the exact
> product used in this role.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Noddy.
>
Would that be a good replacement for the stuff Nissan use on their GQ door
hinges ?


--
Regards ......... Rheilly Phoull

Ext User(The Raven)
07-03-2006, 08:53 PM
<efffemm@f-m.fm> wrote in message
news:1141688303.933736.66560@v46g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com...
> Some fatso walked on roof of my van, pushing it in. The glue bonding
> the reinforcing ribs to the roof sheetmetal broke. So I jacked up
> the ribs after putting some construction adhesive on to stick it back.
> I left it for four days, but after half an hour driving, the adhesive
> came apart. So I looked for something better. Sikaflex make an
> "automotive adhesive" for this sort of thing. Then I asked the bloke
> in the builders market. He said for car bodies, even the "automotive"
> Sikaflex is a risk, and you must get the really high-strength stuff
> costing about $25 a cartridge.
> Has anybody used various grades of Sikaflex, and got a recommendation?

Ignore Sikaflex unless you want a root from one of their saleswomen....... I
won't name her but ask for the bimbo who in the Melbourne office who roots
other salesmen and then steals their customers.....

Make sure to wear a condom..........she's filthy

Ext User(Noddy)
07-03-2006, 09:33 PM
"The Raven" <swilson150@yahoo.com.au> wrote in message
news:440d5640$0$1018$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au ...

> Ignore Sikaflex unless you want a root from one of their saleswomen.......
> I won't name her but ask for the bimbo who in the Melbourne office who
> roots other salesmen and then steals their customers.....
>
> Make sure to wear a condom..........she's filthy

I'm sure.

Why ignore Sikaflex? It's one of the best products on the market.

--
Regards,
Noddy.

Ext User(Mick)
07-03-2006, 09:43 PM
<efffemm@f-m.fm> wrote in message
news:1141688303.933736.66560@v46g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com...
> Some fatso walked on roof of my van, pushing it in. The glue bonding
> the reinforcing ribs to the roof sheetmetal broke. So I jacked up
> the ribs after putting some construction adhesive on to stick it back.
> I left it for four days, but after half an hour driving, the adhesive
> came apart. So I looked for something better. Sikaflex make an
> "automotive adhesive" for this sort of thing. Then I asked the bloke
> in the builders market. He said for car bodies, even the "automotive"
> Sikaflex is a risk, and you must get the really high-strength stuff
> costing about $25 a cartridge.
> Has anybody used various grades of Sikaflex, and got a recommendation?

Not what you asked for but might be cheaper..get it from electrical
wholesalers
http://products.clipsal.com/scripts/ProductInformation.dll?ShowExactCatNo&CatNo=157FSM&ref=

Ext User(Noddy)
07-03-2006, 10:23 PM
"Rheilly Phoull" <Rheilly@bigpong.com> wrote in message
news:440d2f52$0$14517$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-

> Would that be a good replacement for the stuff Nissan use on their GQ door
> hinges ?

I have no idea what Nissan use on their GQ door hinges, but I can't imagine
glue is the only thing. Still, if that's all they use (and I'd be interested
in seeing it), then I'd give Sikaflex a try. I'd add though that while
there's a number of different types of Sikaflex products available, they
mostly all remain somewhat flexible when cured, and can't imagine it being
the ideal bonding agent in this particular case.

If you want the best, and I mean *best* jointing putty available in the
god-damned fucking world, then you need to go along to a plumbing supply
outlet and pick up a couple of tins of Jenco jointing putty. It's a two part
expoxy based putty that's made specifically for joining & repairing
commercial grade cast iron water pipes, such as those used in large fire
service systems or any other application where fail proof sealing of large
diameter iron pipes is vital, and it's absolutely *brilliant* stuff.

It usually comes in a couple of 1kg tins (parts A & B), is mixed together by
hand somewhat awkwardly (has the consistency of thick baby shit), and
applied immediately. Curing time depends largely on the thickness of the
application, however once cured the stuff will survive a 50 megaton nuclear
blast at ground zero.

The stuff will stick to absolutely anything with an amazing bond, can be
filed, sanded, painted, drilled, tapped, bolted, sawn, or anything else you
can subject it to. It's also completely waterproof (obviously), will stand
high engine heat (you can use it to seal cracks in cast iron exhaust
manifolds and it won't burn), and it can be shaped into any contour that you
like.

I've used it as a "temporary" fix to fill holes in radiators and fuel tanks,
but it worked so well that it became permanent. I've also glued bonnet
panels to their subframes with it, used it to repair broken alloy castings,
you name it.

Pretty exxy to buy, but there's nothing bettter.

--
Regards,
Noddy.

Ext User(Rainbow Warrior)
08-03-2006, 08:31 PM
"Rheilly Phoull" <Rheilly@bigpong.com> wrote in message
news:440d2f52$0$14517$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
> Would that be a good replacement for the stuff Nissan use on their GQ door
> hinges ?

Don't know about yours, but my GQ door hinges are bolted on :)

Ext User(Rheilly Phoull)
08-03-2006, 08:51 PM
"Rainbow Warrior" <pizza@sbs.com.fr> wrote in message
news:DrePf.471$dy4.463@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
> "Rheilly Phoull" <Rheilly@bigpong.com> wrote in message
> news:440d2f52$0$14517$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
>> Would that be a good replacement for the stuff Nissan use on their GQ
>> door hinges ?
>
> Don't know about yours, but my GQ door hinges are bolted on :)
>
>
Umm yeah I had noticed the bolts strangely enough but it's painfully obvious
that they dont stop the the hinge flexing on the body. i assume thats why
they have the large blobs of whatever epoxy it is under the hinges.
Thanks for the tip !!

--
Regards ......... Rheilly Phoull

Ext User(Clockmeister)
09-03-2006, 01:44 PM
"Noddy" <dg4163@dodo.com.au> wrote in message
news:440d5f55@news.comindico.com.au...
>
> "The Raven" <swilson150@yahoo.com.au> wrote in message
> news:440d5640$0$1018$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au ...
>
>> Ignore Sikaflex unless you want a root from one of their
>> saleswomen....... I won't name her but ask for the bimbo who in the
>> Melbourne office who roots other salesmen and then steals their
>> customers.....
>>
>> Make sure to wear a condom..........she's filthy
>
> I'm sure.
>
> Why ignore Sikaflex? It's one of the best products on the market.
>

We use Sikaflex at work for sticking on door moulds etc and it's very
good... except it tends to get everywhere no matter how careful you are.

Ext User(Noddy)
09-03-2006, 02:13 PM
"Clockmeister" <no-one@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:120s3bnoccujd64@corp.supernews.com...

> We use Sikaflex at work for sticking on door moulds etc and it's very
> good... except it tends to get everywhere no matter how careful you are.

Yep, messy is also something that it's very good at :)

--
Regards,
Noddy.

Ext User(Craig's Saab C900 Site)
09-03-2006, 02:44 PM
"Noddy" <dg4163@dodo.com.au> writes:


>"Rheilly Phoull" <Rheilly@bigpong.com> wrote in message
>news:440d2f52$0$14517$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-

>> Would that be a good replacement for the stuff Nissan use on their GQ door
>> hinges ?

>I have no idea what Nissan use on their GQ door hinges, but I can't imagine
>glue is the only thing. Still, if that's all they use (and I'd be interested
>in seeing it), then I'd give Sikaflex a try. I'd add though that while
>there's a number of different types of Sikaflex products available, they
>mostly all remain somewhat flexible when cured, and can't imagine it being
>the ideal bonding agent in this particular case.

>If you want the best, and I mean *best* jointing putty available in the
>god-damned fucking world, then you need to go along to a plumbing supply
>outlet and pick up a couple of tins of Jenco jointing putty. It's a two part
>expoxy based putty that's made specifically for joining & repairing
>commercial grade cast iron water pipes, such as those used in large fire
>service systems or any other application where fail proof sealing of large
>diameter iron pipes is vital, and it's absolutely *brilliant* stuff.

>It usually comes in a couple of 1kg tins (parts A & B), is mixed together by
>hand somewhat awkwardly (has the consistency of thick baby shit), and
>applied immediately. Curing time depends largely on the thickness of the
>application, however once cured the stuff will survive a 50 megaton nuclear
>blast at ground zero.

>The stuff will stick to absolutely anything with an amazing bond, can be
>filed, sanded, painted, drilled, tapped, bolted, sawn, or anything else you
>can subject it to. It's also completely waterproof (obviously), will stand
>high engine heat (you can use it to seal cracks in cast iron exhaust
>manifolds and it won't burn), and it can be shaped into any contour that you
>like.

Sounds very similar to JB Weld which I've read plenty about but not yet
tried on anything.

Craig.
--
Craig's Saab C900 Page at | Craig's Classic Saab Workshop - Sydney .au
http://lios.apana.org.au/~c900 | http://www.classicsaab.net and other URL's
Email: c900@lios.apana.org.au | For Saab 99/C900/9000 Enthusiasts World-Wide!
Alternate: saabonaut@gmail.com | Web-forums, galleries, library, links, etc.

Ext User(John McKenzie)
09-03-2006, 02:54 PM
Craig's Saab C900 Site wrote:
>
> "Noddy" <dg4163@dodo.com.au> writes:
>
> >"Rheilly Phoull" <Rheilly@bigpong.com> wrote in message
> >news:440d2f52$0$14517$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-
>
> >> Would that be a good replacement for the stuff Nissan use on their GQ door
> >> hinges ?
>
> >I have no idea what Nissan use on their GQ door hinges, but I can't imagine
> >glue is the only thing. Still, if that's all they use (and I'd be interested
> >in seeing it), then I'd give Sikaflex a try. I'd add though that while
> >there's a number of different types of Sikaflex products available, they
> >mostly all remain somewhat flexible when cured, and can't imagine it being
> >the ideal bonding agent in this particular case.
>
> >If you want the best, and I mean *best* jointing putty available in the
> >god-damned fucking world, then you need to go along to a plumbing supply
> >outlet and pick up a couple of tins of Jenco jointing putty. It's a two part
> >expoxy based putty that's made specifically for joining & repairing
> >commercial grade cast iron water pipes, such as those used in large fire
> >service systems or any other application where fail proof sealing of large
> >diameter iron pipes is vital, and it's absolutely *brilliant* stuff.
>
> >It usually comes in a couple of 1kg tins (parts A & B), is mixed together by
> >hand somewhat awkwardly (has the consistency of thick baby shit), and
> >applied immediately. Curing time depends largely on the thickness of the
> >application, however once cured the stuff will survive a 50 megaton nuclear
> >blast at ground zero.
>
> >The stuff will stick to absolutely anything with an amazing bond, can be
> >filed, sanded, painted, drilled, tapped, bolted, sawn, or anything else you
> >can subject it to. It's also completely waterproof (obviously), will stand
> >high engine heat (you can use it to seal cracks in cast iron exhaust
> >manifolds and it won't burn), and it can be shaped into any contour that you
> >like.
>
> Sounds very similar to JB Weld which I've read plenty about but not yet
> tried on anything.

If you are going down that path (and from memory it's used for
aluminium?) go straight to devcon liquid aluminium.

If you need to do something desperately quickly and nastily with alloy
superglue and baking soda, you don't have long to mix it, so powder the
area, coat in glue, work in then powder on top and work it in. your
fingers will get quite hot as it reacts.


--
John McKenzie

tosspam@aol.com abuse@aol.com abuse@yahoo.com abuse@hotmail.com
abuse@msn.com abuse@sprint.com abuse@earthlink.com fraudinfo@psinet.com
sweep.day@accc.gov.au uce@ftc.gov I am the angel of jute, vengeance will
be twine admin@loopback $LOGIN@localhost $LOGNAME@localhost
$USER@localhost $USER@$HOST -h1024@localhost root@mailloop.com
president@whitehouse.gov vice.president@whitehouse.gov
abuse@iprimus.com.au abuse@cia.gov abuse@fbi.gov abuse@asio.gov.au
abuse@federalpolice.gov.au

Ext User(John_H)
09-03-2006, 03:13 PM
Noddy wrote:
>
>"Clockmeister" <no-one@nowhere.com> wrote in message
>news:120s3bnoccujd64@corp.supernews.com...
>
>> We use Sikaflex at work for sticking on door moulds etc and it's very
>> good... except it tends to get everywhere no matter how careful you are.
>
>Yep, messy is also something that it's very good at :)

I'm getting a little confused here... is that with or without the
condom??? :)

--
John H

Ext User(Aussie)
09-03-2006, 04:04 PM
"Noddy" <dg4163@dodo.com.au> wrote in message
news:440d64a4$1@news.comindico.com.au...
>
> "Rheilly Phoull" <Rheilly@bigpong.com> wrote in message
> news:440d2f52$0$14517$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-
>
> > Would that be a good replacement for the stuff Nissan use on their GQ
door
> > hinges ?
>
> I have no idea






FUCKING HELL....WORLDS FIRST...................






what Nissan use on their GQ door hinges, but I can't imagine
> glue is the only thing. Still, if that's all they use (and I'd be
interested
> in seeing it), then I'd give Sikaflex a try. I'd add though that while
> there's a number of different types of Sikaflex products available, they
> mostly all remain somewhat flexible when cured, and can't imagine it being
> the ideal bonding agent in this particular case.
>
> If you want the best, and I mean *best* jointing putty available in the
> god-damned fucking world, then you need to go along to a plumbing supply
> outlet and pick up a couple of tins of Jenco jointing putty. It's a two
part
> expoxy based putty that's made specifically for joining & repairing
> commercial grade cast iron water pipes, such as those used in large fire
> service systems or any other application where fail proof sealing of large
> diameter iron pipes is vital, and it's absolutely *brilliant* stuff.
>
> It usually comes in a couple of 1kg tins (parts A & B), is mixed together
by
> hand somewhat awkwardly (has the consistency of thick baby shit), and
> applied immediately. Curing time depends largely on the thickness of the
> application, however once cured the stuff will survive a 50 megaton
nuclear
> blast at ground zero.
>
> The stuff will stick to absolutely anything with an amazing bond, can be
> filed, sanded, painted, drilled, tapped, bolted, sawn, or anything else
you
> can subject it to. It's also completely waterproof (obviously), will stand
> high engine heat (you can use it to seal cracks in cast iron exhaust
> manifolds and it won't burn), and it can be shaped into any contour that
you
> like.
>
> I've used it as a "temporary" fix to fill holes in radiators and fuel
tanks,
> but it worked so well that it became permanent. I've also glued bonnet
> panels to their subframes with it, used it to repair broken alloy
castings,
> you name it.
>
> Pretty exxy to buy, but there's nothing bettter.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Noddy.
>
>

Ext User(Noddy)
09-03-2006, 04:14 PM
"Aussie" <fuckU@getstuffed.com> wrote in message
news:440ebbb5$0$14522$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-

> FUCKING HELL....WORLDS FIRST...................

You went to a school where only other special little kiddies like you were
allowed to ride in the nice blue bus, didn't you Myron?

Fucking idiot....

--
Regards,
Noddy.