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Ext User(ghostgunna@mail.tpg.com.au)
17-10-2006, 12:33 AM
Hi guys.

It's gotten hot over the last couple weeks. Whenever I've tried to
wind up the windows & put the air conditioning on the car has only got
hotter! It's blowing air but not cold air.

Does anybody know what could be causing this problem?

I know nothing about cars but times are tough & I'd like to fix it
myself if possible.

The car is a 93 VR.

Thanx 4 looking.

Ext User(Noddy)
17-10-2006, 12:53 AM
<ghostgunna@mail.tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:1161005189.739682.218690@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...

> Does anybody know what could be causing this problem?

It's outa gas.

> I know nothing about cars but times are tough & I'd like to fix it
> myself if possible.

Unless you have air conditioning regassing equipment (plus whatever you need
to fix the leak that caused the gas to escape in the first place), I'd doubt
that you'll have much luck with it yourself.

There's no way around it other than to have it repaired & regassed.

--
Regards,
Noddy.

Ext User(the_dawggie)
17-10-2006, 01:53 AM
ghostgunna@mail.tpg.com.au wrote:

> It's gotten hot over the last couple weeks. Whenever I've tried to
> wind up the windows & put the air conditioning on the car has only got
> hotter! It's blowing air but not cold air.
>
> Does anybody know what could be causing this problem?

'93? It's prolly outta R12.

I would suggest that you put R290 into it which done
right (do from your BBQ bottle- you will need hose/adaptor)
will freeze your bollocks off, take some time to play with o-ring
kits, etc - nothing about it is difficult, it's all home mech. stuff -
there is nothing evil or weird about car A/C - it's home mechanic
type stuff. Finding the leak might be difficult.

Playing with car A/C is fun, however that said you
need to know what you are doing, liquid and
gas phases and you need to know a little fizix,
a little mechanics, that done - it's an easy repair -
far fecking easier than a timing belt replacement.

Ext User(John_H)
17-10-2006, 09:13 AM
the_dawggie wrote:
>
>'93? It's prolly outta R12.

R134A by '93... GMH changed in '91 IIRC.

It's also a CCOT system. Such systems require a high level of
compatability between the orifice tube and the refrigerant used (eg
R12 & R134A systems use a different orifice tube).

Not a good candidate for LPG conversion by someone who isn't
relatively familiar with refrigeration fundemantals. Nor is replacing
the compressor shaft seal (the most likely cause of any refrigerant
loss) a DIY job -- nor will most a.c. repairers be able to do it (find
one who can).

Have it converted to a hydrocarbon refrigerant by all means (eg
Hychill) but find someone else to do it. Also make sure they get rid
of the nasty PAG oil in the process... I'd suggest flushing and
refilling with ROC refrigeration oil (available from Repco).

--
John H

Ext User(John_H)
17-10-2006, 09:13 AM
ghostgunna@mail.tpg.com.au wrote:
>
>It's gotten hot over the last couple weeks. Whenever I've tried to
>wind up the windows & put the air conditioning on the car has only got
>hotter! It's blowing air but not cold air.
>
>Does anybody know what could be causing this problem?
>
>I know nothing about cars but times are tough & I'd like to fix it
>myself if possible.
>
>The car is a 93 VR.

The most likely, but not the only possibilities, are loss of
refrigerant, or a problem in the clutch control circuit.

If it's out of refrigerant the system would almost certainly have been
short cycling before it failed. If you're half observant you should
have noticed whether it did or not.

If you're handy at electrical fault finding, and have access to a
multimeter and a wiring diagram, it's relatively simple to check out
the clutch circuit. The operating state of the high and low pressure
switches will also indicate whether it's lost its refrigerant or not.

Bad contacts at any of the connector plugs (including the one at the
ECM) are a common fault in Holdens. Pressure switches have also been
known to fail.

--
John H

Ext User(Clockmeister)
17-10-2006, 09:23 AM
<ghostgunna@mail.tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:1161005189.739682.218690@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Hi guys.
>
> It's gotten hot over the last couple weeks. Whenever I've tried to
> wind up the windows & put the air conditioning on the car has only got
> hotter! It's blowing air but not cold air.
>
> Does anybody know what could be causing this problem?
>
> I know nothing about cars but times are tough & I'd like to fix it
> myself if possible.
>
> The car is a 93 VR.
>

Does the compressor cut in when you switch the A/C on (can you physically
see it cut in)?

Ext User(the_dawggie)
17-10-2006, 12:53 PM
John_H wrote:
> the_dawggie wrote:
> >
> >'93? It's prolly outta R12.
>
> R134A by '93... GMH changed in '91 IIRC.

That early?

> Hychill) but find someone else to do it. Also make sure they get rid
> of the nasty PAG oil in the process... I'd suggest flushing and
> refilling with ROC refrigeration oil (available from Repco).

Not heard of that - doing a web search looks good
stuff, compatible, friendly, not hygroscopic.

Yup, Repco do indeed have a good selection of A/C type stuff,
can get Jayair O-ring kits, and pretty much what you need
there. The shelving I saw when last getting A/C stuff looked
well stocked.

There is also lots of good info on A/C in general on the Hychill
site.

www.hychill.com.au click on site map and scroll down.

Ext User(ghostgunna@mail.tpg.com.au)
17-10-2006, 03:13 PM
I'd like to thank everybody who has tried 2 help me.

John_H wrote:
> If it's out of refrigerant the system would almost certainly have been
> short cycling before it failed. If you're half observant you should
> have noticed whether it did or not.

Actually, last year, when I turned on the air conditioning, nothing
would happen. The light on the A/C button wouldn't come on & no air
was being blown. This would happen when I started the car or when I
pressed the A/C button or when I moved the fan slider to an active
position. After anywhwere between 10 seconds & 5 minutes the air would
start blowing.

It hasn't done that over the last week & I'd forgotten about that. Is
that what you meant by short cycling?

> If you're handy at electrical fault finding, and have access to a
> multimeter and a wiring diagram, it's relatively simple to check out
> the clutch circuit. The operating state of the high and low pressure
> switches will also indicate whether it's lost its refrigerant or not.
>
> Bad contacts at any of the connector plugs (including the one at the
> ECM) are a common fault in Holdens. Pressure switches have also been
> known to fail.

I know absolutely nothing about cars. I'd like to teach myself but it
seems this job may be too much of a specialists job. I don't have any
equipment or charts etc.

Clockmeister wrote:
> Does the compressor cut in when you switch the A/C on (can you physically
> see it cut in)?

I don't know where the compressor is or what it looks like. (Kinda
embarrassing, I know.)

Ext User(John_H)
17-10-2006, 04:33 PM
the_dawggie wrote:
>
>John_H wrote:
>>
>> Hychill) but find someone else to do it. Also make sure they get rid
>> of the nasty PAG oil in the process... I'd suggest flushing and
>> refilling with ROC refrigeration oil (available from Repco).
>
>Not heard of that - doing a web search looks good
>stuff, compatible, friendly, not hygroscopic.

Apparently you've missed everyone of my posts on the topic over the
last five years or so... I've been recommending it for at least that
long, and using it for somewhat longer. :-)

It's also one of the two oils recommended by Hychill. Repco are
cheaper though.

--
John H

Ext User(John_H)
17-10-2006, 04:33 PM
ghostgunna@mail.tpg.com.au wrote:
>
>John_H wrote:
>>
>> If it's out of refrigerant the system would almost certainly have been
>> short cycling before it failed. If you're half observant you should
>> have noticed whether it did or not.
>
>Actually, last year, when I turned on the air conditioning, nothing
>would happen. The light on the A/C button wouldn't come on & no air
>was being blown. This would happen when I started the car or when I
>pressed the A/C button or when I moved the fan slider to an active
>position. After anywhwere between 10 seconds & 5 minutes the air would
>start blowing.

The cabin fan is entirely independent of the a.c. system, except that
the compressor clutch won't operate unless the fan is switched on, but
not vice versa.

Short cycling refers to the compressor duty cycle.

If that all sounds like double Dutch you're gonna need an expert to
sort it out... and probably seven hundred bucks or so if your
compressor's got a leaking seal. :(

--
John H

Ext User(the_dawggie)
17-10-2006, 05:23 PM
John_H wrote:
> the_dawggie wrote:
> >
> >John_H wrote:
> >>
> >> Hychill) but find someone else to do it. Also make sure they get rid
> >> of the nasty PAG oil in the process... I'd suggest flushing and
> >> refilling with ROC refrigeration oil (available from Repco).
> >
> >Not heard of that - doing a web search looks good
> >stuff, compatible, friendly, not hygroscopic.
>
> Apparently you've missed everyone of my posts on the topic over the
> last five years or so... I've been recommending it for at least that
> long, and using it for somewhat longer. :-)

Ooops, yup found your previous post about, however last oil
purchase (from Repco - Castrol product) was before that time,
so didn't remember.

{Bad dawggie- wanders orf with tail between legs (wondering
about condition of memory)}

Ext User(ghostgunna@mail.tpg.com.au)
19-10-2006, 01:13 AM
John_H wrote:
> If that all sounds like double Dutch you're gonna need an expert to
> sort it out... and probably seven hundred bucks or so if your
> compressor's got a leaking seal. :(

OK. Thanx again.

Can anyone recommend a place to take my car in Sydney?

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