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Ext User(Andy)
01-09-2010, 11:04 PM
Evening folks.

Spent a bit of time earlier this evening attempting to set the base
timing on my (EL) Falcon wagon. I RTFM, bridged the two terminals (top
left and bottom left) in the diagnostic panel with a spade connector
and started the car. Idle jumps up to 1100-1200rpm for maybe 10
seconds then drops. Waiting 2-5 minutes makes no difference - the
timing marks stay the same (notch on balancer just past noon), whether
I've just turned the car on or I wait for several minutes.

The idle 'coughs' like it's apparently supposed to, but no difference
to the timing marks.

I thought about the possibility of a slipped balancer, but the timing
marks don't change at all, whether the car is in 'normal' mode (no
jumper) or in the (not quite functional) diagnostic mode.

Thoughts? Anyone seen/heard of this before? Easier sorted with a box
of matches?

Thanks in advance,
Andy.

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Ext User(atec77)
01-09-2010, 11:14 PM
On 1/09/2010 9:55 PM, Andy wrote:
> Evening folks.
>
> Spent a bit of time earlier this evening attempting to set the base
> timing on my (EL) Falcon wagon. I RTFM, bridged the two terminals (top
> left and bottom left) in the diagnostic panel with a spade connector
> and started the car. Idle jumps up to 1100-1200rpm for maybe 10
> seconds then drops. Waiting 2-5 minutes makes no difference - the
> timing marks stay the same (notch on balancer just past noon), whether
> I've just turned the car on or I wait for several minutes.
>
> The idle 'coughs' like it's apparently supposed to, but no difference
> to the timing marks.
>
> I thought about the possibility of a slipped balancer, but the timing
> marks don't change at all, whether the car is in 'normal' mode (no
> jumper) or in the (not quite functional) diagnostic mode.
>
> Thoughts? Anyone seen/heard of this before? Easier sorted with a box
> of matches?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Andy.
>
Wyy touch it ?
easiest is bump the dizzy u till the car pings a little on a climb and
back it off a pooftenth on the dissy
Often those dizzys have stretch springs leaving you a couple of
choices including checking th tension , snipping the springs or
replacing the dizzy if the springs are stuffed , another thing to watch
for is the bottom bush being loose allowing the timing to wander under
load causing flat spots

I think you need a 3/8 long bar and a 9 or 10 mm socket down through
the manifold
when you are done drop the b+ lead for 10 minutes and stepping on the
brake pedal just before re connecting to reset and make it learn again

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Ext User(Andy)
01-09-2010, 11:53 PM
atec77 wrote:

> On 1/09/2010 9:55 PM, Andy wrote:
>> Evening folks.
>>
>> Spent a bit of time earlier this evening attempting to set the base
>> timing on my (EL) Falcon wagon. I RTFM, bridged the two terminals (top
>> left and bottom left) in the diagnostic panel with a spade connector
>> and started the car. Idle jumps up to 1100-1200rpm for maybe 10
>> seconds then drops. Waiting 2-5 minutes makes no difference - the
>> timing marks stay the same (notch on balancer just past noon), whether
>> I've just turned the car on or I wait for several minutes.
>>
>> The idle 'coughs' like it's apparently supposed to, but no difference
>> to the timing marks.
>>
>> I thought about the possibility of a slipped balancer, but the timing
>> marks don't change at all, whether the car is in 'normal' mode (no
>> jumper) or in the (not quite functional) diagnostic mode.
>>
>> Thoughts? Anyone seen/heard of this before? Easier sorted with a box
>> of matches?
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Andy.
>>
> Wyy touch it ?

I want to make sure it's running optimally - I'm slowly making progress
for better fuel economy. When I first bought it I wasn't getting much
more than 400Km from a tank.

> easiest is bump the dizzy u till the car pings a little on a climb and
> back it off a pooftenth on the dissy

That's probably the plan at this point (and what I ended up doing for
the time being). Seems there's limited amounts of initial advance you
can adjust in anyway - 'something' on the assy fouls on something else
stopping the dizzy from turning any further anti-clockwise.

Pissed off that I wasted $70 on (yet another) timing light after the
last one went missing sometime in the last 5 house moves though.

"Disconnect then block off the vacuum advance line before you start" was
so much easier than this shit.

> Often those dizzys have stretch springs leaving you a couple of
> choices including checking th tension , snipping the springs or
> replacing the dizzy if the springs are stuffed , another thing to watch
> for is the bottom bush being loose allowing the timing to wander under
> load causing flat spots
>
> I think you need a 3/8 long bar and a 9 or 10 mm socket down through
> the manifold

Yeah, I had to use both extension bars and a 12mm socket. There's a
special place in hell reserved for the **** who decided on that
particular location for the dizzy. I'm not looking forward to doing the
plug leads.

> when you are done drop the b+ lead for 10 minutes and stepping on the
> brake pedal just before re connecting to reset and make it learn again

Won't that **** up my trans shift points/drivability for the next few
days or so?

I only put a new battery in it about 3 weeks ago, too.

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Ext User(^Tems^)
02-09-2010, 02:23 AM
Andy wrote:
> atec77 wrote:
>
>> On 1/09/2010 9:55 PM, Andy wrote:
>>> Evening folks.
>>>
>>> Spent a bit of time earlier this evening attempting to set the base
>>> timing on my (EL) Falcon wagon. I RTFM, bridged the two terminals (top
>>> left and bottom left) in the diagnostic panel with a spade connector
>>> and started the car. Idle jumps up to 1100-1200rpm for maybe 10
>>> seconds then drops. Waiting 2-5 minutes makes no difference - the
>>> timing marks stay the same (notch on balancer just past noon), whether
>>> I've just turned the car on or I wait for several minutes.
>>>
>>> The idle 'coughs' like it's apparently supposed to, but no difference
>>> to the timing marks.
>>>
>>> I thought about the possibility of a slipped balancer, but the timing
>>> marks don't change at all, whether the car is in 'normal' mode (no
>>> jumper) or in the (not quite functional) diagnostic mode.
>>>
>>> Thoughts? Anyone seen/heard of this before? Easier sorted with a box
>>> of matches?
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>> Andy.
>>>
>> Wyy touch it ?
>
> I want to make sure it's running optimally - I'm slowly making progress
> for better fuel economy. When I first bought it I wasn't getting much
> more than 400Km from a tank.
>
>> easiest is bump the dizzy u till the car pings a little on a climb and
>> back it off a pooftenth on the dissy
>
> That's probably the plan at this point (and what I ended up doing for
> the time being). Seems there's limited amounts of initial advance you
> can adjust in anyway - 'something' on the assy fouls on something else
> stopping the dizzy from turning any further anti-clockwise.
>
> Pissed off that I wasted $70 on (yet another) timing light after the
> last one went missing sometime in the last 5 house moves though.
>
> "Disconnect then block off the vacuum advance line before you start" was
> so much easier than this shit.
>
>> Often those dizzys have stretch springs leaving you a couple of
>> choices including checking th tension , snipping the springs or
>> replacing the dizzy if the springs are stuffed , another thing to watch
>> for is the bottom bush being loose allowing the timing to wander under
>> load causing flat spots
>>
>> I think you need a 3/8 long bar and a 9 or 10 mm socket down through
>> the manifold
>
> Yeah, I had to use both extension bars and a 12mm socket. There's a
> special place in hell reserved for the **** who decided on that
> particular location for the dizzy.

I just put a new head gasket in my EL, there is a special place in hell
for the **** with the dwarf hands that design most of the bolt locations
on the that engine especially on the inlet manifold

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