DIY Subby [Archive] - Aussie Phorums

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Steve Batt

28-01-2004, 07:46 PM

Hakka

28-01-2004, 08:55 PM

I am seriously thinking about building my own sub woofer, anyone suggest any
websites i can check out.

As my fronts already go down to 35 Hz, I am looking more for an effects type
speaker ie freq response below 20 Hz.

I have found a driver that is suitable in the Electus catalogue, a twin coil
extra long throw 10" .

Any help would be welcome

Steve

I built a pair of DIY subs about a year ago. I would recommend using at least a 12" Adire Shiva driver or maybe a 15" tempest, depending on the size of your room. A 10" driver will struggle to go below 20hz and maintain a reasonable output level.

www.hometheaterforum.com is the best source of info, look in the DIY section.

You can download modelling programs such as LSPCAD or WINISD (search for these on HTF), they let you change certain parameters of the sub (eg. port length, cabinet volume) and it will show you how your changes will affect the end result.

I built 2 cylinder subs using 12" Shiva drivers, cabinet volume of 170 litres and a tune of 17.5hz. I had 2 Yamaha subs that I pulled the plate amps out of and they run the cylinders.
The bass these things can produce is mind blowing. I have measured mine flat to 15hz, I didn't have any test tones that were lower than 15hz. I have hit 129db on a 20hz sine wave, using both subs in a smallish room, with lots of headroom to spare.
I have demo'd Klipsch and M&K subs costing upwards of $3k and they didn't have the extension and weren't as tight as the DIYs.
The total cost was about $400 each - not counting the amplification. The driver was $275, from memory the tube was about $80 a length(you can get about 2 or 3 subs from 1 length).

I dont have any pictures to post but they look almost identical to an SVS 16-46 (without the SVS logo.)

www.svsubwoofers.com

If you want to see some pics I can e-mail some to you.

GMac

29-01-2004, 03:26 AM

"Hakka" <Hakka.10qknj@no-mx.forums.eyo.com.au> wrote in message
news:Hakka.10qknj@no-mx.forums.eyo.com.au...
>
> > t> I am seriously thinking about building my own sub woofer, anyone
> > suggest any
> > websites i can check out.
> >
> > As my fronts already go down to 35 Hz, I am looking more for an
> > effects type
> > speaker ie freq response below 20 Hz.
> >
> > I have found a driver that is suitable in the Electus catalogue, a
> > twin coil
> > extra long throw 10" .
> >
> > Any help would be welcome
> >
> > Steve
>
> I built a pair of DIY subs about a year ago. I would recommend using at
> least a 12" Adire Shiva driver or maybe a 15" tempest, depending on the
> size of your room. A 10" driver will struggle to go below 20hz and
> maintain a reasonable output level.
>
> www.hometheaterforum.com is the best source of info, look in the DIY
> section.
>
> You can download modelling programs such as LSPCAD or WINISD (search
> for these on HTF), they let you change certain parameters of the sub
> (eg. port length, cabinet volume) and it will show you how your changes
> will affect the end result.
>
> I built 2 cylinder subs using 12" Shiva drivers, cabinet volume of 170
> litres and a tune of 17.5hz. I had 2 Yamaha subs that I pulled the
> plate amps out of and they run the cylinders.
> The bass these things can produce is mind blowing. I have measured mine
> flat to 15hz, I didn't have any test tones that were lower than 15hz. I
> have hit 129db on a 20hz sine wave, using both subs in a smallish room,
> with lots of headroom to spare.
> I have demo'd Klipsch and M&K subs costing upwards of $3k and they
> didn't have the extension and weren't as tight as the DIYs.
> The total cost was about $400 each - not counting the amplification.
> The driver was $275, from memory the tube was about $80 a length(you
> can get about 2 or 3 subs from 1 length).
>
> I dont have any pictures to post but they look almost identical to an
> SVS 16-46 (without the SVS logo.)
>
> www.svsubwoofers.com
>
> If you want to see some pics I can e-mail some to you.
>
>
> --
> Hakka
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Hakka's Profile:
http://forums.eyo.com.au/member.php?action=getinfo&userid=8752
> View this thread: http://forums.eyo.com.au/showthread.php?threadid=36451
>Hi Hakka ,
Can you give some more detail on how you constructed your subs.
Gordon

Steve Batt

29-01-2004, 08:06 AM

"GMac" <gor2003@smartchat.net.au> wrote in message
news:bv8nh3$5te$1@yeppa.connect.com.au...
>
> "Hakka" <Hakka.10qknj@no-mx.forums.eyo.com.au> wrote in message
> news:Hakka.10qknj@no-mx.forums.eyo.com.au...
> >
> > > t> I am seriously thinking about building my own sub woofer, anyone
> > > suggest any
> > > websites i can check out.
> > >
> > > As my fronts already go down to 35 Hz, I am looking more for an
> > > effects type
> > > speaker ie freq response below 20 Hz.
> > >
> > > I have found a driver that is suitable in the Electus catalogue, a
> > > twin coil
> > > extra long throw 10" .
> > >
> > > Any help would be welcome
> > >
> > > Steve
> >
> > I built a pair of DIY subs about a year ago. I would recommend using at
> > least a 12" Adire Shiva driver or maybe a 15" tempest, depending on the
> > size of your room. A 10" driver will struggle to go below 20hz and
> > maintain a reasonable output level.
> >
> > www.hometheaterforum.com is the best source of info, look in the DIY
> > section.
> >
> > You can download modelling programs such as LSPCAD or WINISD (search
> > for these on HTF), they let you change certain parameters of the sub
> > (eg. port length, cabinet volume) and it will show you how your changes
> > will affect the end result.
> >
> > I built 2 cylinder subs using 12" Shiva drivers, cabinet volume of 170
> > litres and a tune of 17.5hz. I had 2 Yamaha subs that I pulled the
> > plate amps out of and they run the cylinders.
> > The bass these things can produce is mind blowing. I have measured mine
> > flat to 15hz, I didn't have any test tones that were lower than 15hz. I
> > have hit 129db on a 20hz sine wave, using both subs in a smallish room,
> > with lots of headroom to spare.
> > I have demo'd Klipsch and M&K subs costing upwards of $3k and they
> > didn't have the extension and weren't as tight as the DIYs.
> > The total cost was about $400 each - not counting the amplification.
> > The driver was $275, from memory the tube was about $80 a length(you
> > can get about 2 or 3 subs from 1 length).
> >
> > I dont have any pictures to post but they look almost identical to an
> > SVS 16-46 (without the SVS logo.)
> >
> > www.svsubwoofers.com
> >
> > If you want to see some pics I can e-mail some to you.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Hakka
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Hakka's Profile:
> http://forums.eyo.com.au/member.php?action=getinfo&userid=8752
> > View this thread: http://forums.eyo.com.au/showthread.php?threadid=36451
> >Hi Hakka ,
> Can you give some more detail on how you constructed your subs.
> Gordon
>
> Thanks for the above guys

Steve

Hakka

29-01-2004, 04:53 PM

The body of the sub is made from concrete forming tube 16 inch diameter, about 1.5m long. The top cap is a piece of 32mm MDF cut to a 16 inch diameter circle, in the middle of this there is a 4inch diameter hole for the port to mount in. The port is made from 4 inch electrial conduit (pvc will do fine), I used a router to cut a flare into the top of the port opening, there is also a small piece of MDF on the bottom end of the port to allow room for a flare to be cut into it
. The bottom cap is also 16 inch diameter MDF, with a cutout for the driver to mount in face down. There is another piece of MDF used as a baseplate, with three small legs (about 2.5 inches) connecting the baseplate to the bottom cap containing the driver.
The MDF caps were cut with a router to allow 1/2 the thickness of the cap to slide inside the tube and the other half is flush with the outside of the tube. The inside of the tube was lined with white batting from spotlight, the outer of the tube was covered with a speaker grille type cloth, and the caps painted matt black.

Hope that makes sense.

If you would rather make a box sub you just need to use the same volume and port specs and you will achieve the same results. I prefer cylinders because a) they are easier to make, you need to brace a square box, you dont need to brace a cylinder.
b) smaller footprint, only takes up 16 inches of floor space, an equivalent sized box would take up more space.

Craig Mander

29-01-2004, 07:36 PM

"Steve Batt" <battsteven@coldmail.com> wrote in message
news:VwKRb.31808$Wa.9818@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
> I am seriously thinking about building my own sub woofer, anyone suggest
any
> websites i can check out.
>
> As my fronts already go down to 35 Hz, I am looking more for an effects
type
> speaker ie freq response below 20 Hz.
>
> I have found a driver that is suitable in the Electus catalogue, a twin
coil
> extra long throw 10" .
>
> Any help would be welcome
>
> Steve
>
>
Steve if you also have a look at WES they have the Peerless XLS range of
subs also.
That is what I used to make my sub.
I used a 10" driver and a 12" PR, if you want lower more output you can use
a 12" and a pair of 12" PR's.
You can use the 240W amp from electus (jaycar) to go with it or a bigger amp
from other vendors depending on what you want.
If want to DIY the amp also you can have a look at sound.westhost.com
http://www.wescomponents.com/peerless/XLS.htm gives some ideas on how it
goes.
I am very happy with mine so far, just need to get to measure to see what it
does, can feel what it does so have an idea.
cheers
Craig...

Mark Hathaway

29-01-2004, 07:46 PM

> I built a pair of DIY subs about a year ago. I would recommend using at
> least a 12" Adire Shiva driver or maybe a 15" tempest, depending on the
> size of your room. A 10" driver will struggle to go below 20hz and
> maintain a reasonable output level.

Also the asian made drivers are pretty average quality wise. The Adire stuff
is very good, so is the Peerless XLS range. Peerless can be obtained from
Speaker bits www.speakerbits.com.au in Melbourne or WES in Sydney.
http://www.wescomponents.com/

If dollars are of no concern, a Lambda Acoustics driver or two in the
correct box would be state of the art. http://www.lambdacoustics.com/

Mark Hathaway

Steve Batt

29-01-2004, 07:46 PM

Gadgets

29-01-2004, 07:56 PM

Some links -
http://www.angelfire.com/electronic/loudspeaker/

or semi DIY - www.loudspeakerkit.com

Cheers, Jason - remove macrovision to reply : )

PC IR Remotes:
http://gadgets.shorturl.com

Hakka

29-01-2004, 08:29 PM

"Craig Mander" <cmander@ihatespam.excite.com> wrote in message
news:4018c35e$0$4259$c30e37c6@lon-reader.news.telstra.net...
> "Steve Batt" <battsteven@coldmail.com> wrote in message
> news:VwKRb.31808$Wa.9818@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
> > I am seriously thinking about building my own sub woofer, anyone suggest
> any
> > websites i can check out.
> >
> > As my fronts already go down to 35 Hz, I am looking more for an effects
> type
> > speaker ie freq response below 20 Hz.
> >
> > I have found a driver that is suitable in the Electus catalogue, a twin
> coil
> > extra long throw 10" .
> >
> > Any help would be welcome
> >
> > Steve
> >
> >
> Steve if you also have a look at WES they have the Peerless XLS range of
> subs also.
> That is what I used to make my sub.
> I used a 10" driver and a 12" PR, if you want lower more output you can
use
> a 12" and a pair of 12" PR's.
> You can use the 240W amp from electus (jaycar) to go with it or a bigger
amp
> from other vendors depending on what you want.
> If want to DIY the amp also you can have a look at sound.westhost.com
> http://www.wescomponents.com/peerless/XLS.htm gives some ideas on how it
> goes.
> I am very happy with mine so far, just need to get to measure to see what
it
> does, can feel what it does so have an idea.
> cheers
> Craig...
>
> Thanx Craig
I am thinking of either build the amp or using my spare stereo amp(only 60
WRMS) to either drive a pair of speakers or a twin coil jobbie.

Steve

I take it your amp is rated at 60w at 8ohms, it needs to be stable into 4 ohms to drive a shiva using one channel per voice coil. I think you can connect it differently if your amp cant do 8ohms but i'm not sure, you might want to have a look around the Adire website for more info.
The Yamaha plate amps I use are 185w into 4 ohms and they have headroom to spare. If you buy/build a plate amp, make sure it has a flat response, some plate amps have an intentional hump to boost low freq response, if it does have a hump it can usually be defeated to obtain a flat response.

Here are the details for the aussie distributor for the Shiva:

Acoustic Concepts
63 Southern Road
Mentone, Victoria 3194
AUSTRALIA
PHONE: 61 3 9585 1622
FAX: 61 3 9585 1244
E-MAIL: info@acousticconcepts.com.au
WEB: http://www.acousticconcepts.com.au

Here is the Shiva page:

http://www.adireaudio.com/diy_audio/drivers/adire/shiva.htm

You can download a free copy of LSPCAD here, it is preloaded with the Adire drivers. Play around with the different parameters and see the results.

http://www.adireaudio.com/miscellaneous/software.htm

If anyone wants to see a step by step process for building one of these go to www.hometheaterforum.com and search in the DIY area for a user named Patrick Sun. He has about 50 pics that show every little detail. He is also a great source of information on DIY subs.

Steve Batt

29-01-2004, 09:56 PM

"Hakka" <Hakka.10seeg@no-mx.forums.eyo.com.au> wrote in message
news:Hakka.10seeg@no-mx.forums.eyo.com.au...
>
> > t> "Craig Mander" <cmander@ihatespam.excite.com> wrote in message
> > news:4018c35e$0$4259$c30e37c6@lon-reader.news.telstra.net...
> > > "Steve Batt" <battsteven@coldmail.com> wrote in message
> > >
> > news:VwKRb.31808$Wa.9818@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
> > > > I am seriously thinking about building my own sub woofer, anyone
> > suggest
> > > any
> > > > websites i can check out.
> > > >
> > > > As my fronts already go down to 35 Hz, I am looking more for an
> > effects
> > > type
> > > > speaker ie freq response below 20 Hz.
> > > >
> > > > I have found a driver that is suitable in the Electus catalogue,
> > a twin
> > > coil
> > > > extra long throw 10" .
> > > >
> > > > Any help would be welcome
> > > >
> > > > Steve
> > > >
> > > >
> > > Steve if you also have a look at WES they have the Peerless XLS
> > range of
> > > subs also.
> > > That is what I used to make my sub.
> > > I used a 10" driver and a 12" PR, if you want lower more output you
> > can
> > use
> > > a 12" and a pair of 12" PR's.
> > > You can use the 240W amp from electus (jaycar) to go with it or a
> > bigger
> > amp
> > > from other vendors depending on what you want.
> > > If want to DIY the amp also you can have a look at
> > sound.westhost.com
> > > http://www.wescomponents.com/peerless/XLS.htm gives some ideas on
> > how it
> > > goes.
> > > I am very happy with mine so far, just need to get to measure to
> > see what
> > it
> > > does, can feel what it does so have an idea.
> > > cheers
> > > Craig...
> > >
> > > Thanx Craig
> > I am thinking of either build the amp or using my spare stereo
> > amp(only 60
> > WRMS) to either drive a pair of speakers or a twin coil jobbie.
> >
> > Steve
>
> I take it your amp is rated at 60w at 8ohms, it needs to be stable into
> 4 ohms to drive a shiva using one channel per voice coil. I think you
> can connect it differently if your amp cant do 8ohms but i'm not sure,
> you might want to have a look around the Adire website for more info.
> The Yamaha plate amps I use are 185w into 4 ohms and they have headroom
> to spare. If you buy/build a plate amp, make sure it has a flat
> response, some plate amps have an intentional hump to boost low freq
> response, if it does have a hump it can usually be defeated to obtain a
> flat response.
>
> Here are the details for the aussie distributor for the Shiva:
>
> Acoustic Concepts
> 63 Southern Road
> Mentone, Victoria 3194
> AUSTRALIA
> PHONE: 61 3 9585 1622
> FAX: 61 3 9585 1244
> E-MAIL: info@acousticconcepts.com.au
> WEB: http://www.acousticconcepts.com.au
>
>
> Here is the Shiva page:
>
> http://www.adireaudio.com/diy_audio/drivers/adire/shiva.htm
>
> You can download a free copy of LSPCAD here, it is preloaded with the
> Adire drivers. Play around with the different parameters and see the
> results.
>
> http://www.adireaudio.com/miscellaneous/software.htm
>
> If anyone wants to see a step by step process for building one of these
> go to www.hometheaterforum.com and search in the DIY area for a user
> named Patrick Sun. He has about 50 pics that show every little detail.
> He is also a great source of information on DIY subs.
>
>
> --
> Hakka
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Hakka's Profile:
http://forums.eyo.com.au/member.php?action=getinfo&userid=8752
> View this thread: http://forums.eyo.com.au/showthread.php?threadid=36451
The amp can handle 2 ohms no worries, its a Copland CSA14.

Steve

GMac

30-01-2004, 04:26 AM

"Hakka" <Hakka.10s47r@no-mx.forums.eyo.com.au> wrote in message
news:Hakka.10s47r@no-mx.forums.eyo.com.au...
>
> The body of the sub is made from concrete forming tube 16 inch diameter,
> about 1.5m long. The top cap is a piece of 32mm MDF cut to a 16 inch
> diameter circle, in the middle of this there is a 4inch diameter hole
> for the port to mount in. The port is made from 4 inch electrial
> conduit (pvc will do fine), I used a router to cut a flare into the top
> of the port opening, there is also a small piece of MDF on the bottom
> end of the port to allow room for a flare to be cut into it
> The bottom cap is also 16 inch diameter MDF, with a cutout for the
> driver to mount in face down. There is another piece of MDF used as a
> baseplate, with three small legs (about 2.5 inches) connecting the
> baseplate to the bottom cap containing the driver.
> The MDF caps were cut with a router to allow 1/2 the thickness of the
> cap to slide inside the tube and the other half is flush with the
> outside of the tube. The inside of the tube was lined with white
> batting from spotlight, the outer of the tube was covered with a
> speaker grille type cloth, and the caps painted matt black.
>
> Hope that makes sense.
>
> If you would rather make a box sub you just need to use the same volume
> and port specs and you will achieve the same results. I prefer
> cylinders because a) they are easier to make, you need to brace a
> square box, you dont need to brace a cylinder.
> b) smaller footprint, only takes up 16 inches of floor
> space, an equivalent sized box would take up more space.
>
>
> --
> Hakka
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Hakka's Profile:
http://forums.eyo.com.au/member.php?action=getinfo&userid=8752
> View this thread: http://forums.eyo.com.au/showthread.php?threadid=36451
>Thanks Hakka
Gordon

uforia

30-01-2004, 10:06 AM

Would have to agree with the Adire Shiva 12" sub.....a jaycar amp and tuned low. The only draw back would be the slightly largish box the shiva would require, but it will reward you with loud low bass :)

As Hakka said, it will match or even out preform subs that are in the $1000-3000 catergory :dD

Hakka

30-01-2004, 05:49 PM

I take it your amp is rated at 60w at 8ohms, it needs to be stable into 4 ohms to drive a shiva using one channel per voice coil.

Sorry, I posted some incorrect info above. The Shiva gives a 4 ohm load when both coils are wired in paralell, using one amp channel.

That amp should do the trick Steve.

wally

30-01-2004, 07:56 PM

Steve,

Have a look at these:

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~joeras/sub_index.htm
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/thor-intro.htm

Both projects use the Peerless XLS driver in similar size (50 litre) boxes.
When I checked the Linkwitz site was not available. This is probably because
it is the end of the month and the download limit has been reached; maybe
best to try again in a few days.

The local design uses a plate amp available from Jaycar. I went that way
because it was easier than sourcing all the components for the active
crossover used in the Linkwitz design.

This thing works a treat. It is very fast and very clean. Perhaps best of
all for me was the ease of construction. All up it cost circa $800 ($300 for
the XLS driver, $430 for amp and $70 for the cabinet). Finish is black
painted MDF.

If you get to the point at where this looks like a goer, you should be aware
of a small bug in the details provided for modifying the plate amp to
flatten out the 30Hz bump and increase its gain to compensate for the
equalisation that has been added. I tried to alert the designer to it but he
has not responded. Don't let that put you off though; the XLS is a great
driver and delivers outstanding results in what is a relatively small box.
Tis worth a look.

wally

"Steve Batt" <battsteven@coldmail.com> wrote in message
news:VwKRb.31808$Wa.9818@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
> I am seriously thinking about building my own sub woofer, anyone suggest
any
> websites i can check out.
>
> As my fronts already go down to 35 Hz, I am looking more for an effects
type
> speaker ie freq response below 20 Hz.
>
> I have found a driver that is suitable in the Electus catalogue, a twin
coil
> extra long throw 10" .
>
> Any help would be welcome
>
> Steve
>
>