VP, Check Engine warning lamp code 35

[Adrian]

"clockmeister" <no-one@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:417d9cc4@duster.adelaide.on.net...
>
> "Or" <Orion@rigel.net> wrote in message
> news:417b4487@duster.adelaide.on.net...
>> Hi Clockmeister,
>>
>> Thanks for the advice

<snip>

Clockmeister is the_best for helpful advice when he wants to be.
Continually impresses me, and I'm sure, others.

Adrian

[clockmeister]

"Adrian" <ctrlaltdel@dodo.com.au> wrote in message
news:417eda81$1@news.comindico.com.au...
>
> "clockmeister" <no-one@nowhere.com> wrote in message
> news:417d9cc4@duster.adelaide.on.net...
>>
>> "Or" <Orion@rigel.net> wrote in message
>> news:417b4487@duster.adelaide.on.net...
>>> Hi Clockmeister,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the advice
>
> <snip>
>
> Clockmeister is the_best for helpful advice when he wants to be.
> Continually impresses me, and I'm sure, others.
>
> Adrian

Thank you Adrian for the kind words, it's nice to get some positive feedback
:-)

[clockmeister]

"Or" <Orion@rigel.net> wrote in message
news:417b4487@duster.adelaide.on.net...
> Hi Clockmeister,
>
> Thanks for the advice on code 35.
> As much as I would like to throw away this Gregorys` book I cant do it for
> a very simple reason.
> I couldn`t find anything better AND as widely available as Gregorys`. Can
> only wish that every corner bookstore would have a better publications on
> their shelves....
> I promise to throw it to my dog to play with as soon as I find a better
> one. :-)
> If you know of any better books and where to buy them please advertise on
> this group and I`m sure some people will buy them.
>
> I suspected a faulty IAC valve but because it is in such an awkward place
> I didn`t even wanted to think of replacing it.
> Looks like I can`t take shortcuts. I will replace it as soon as I can.
> (have to buy genuine Holden part - read the most expensive).

There may be nothing wrong with the IAC valve. The most important part is
that you are going to have to remove the throttle body (two 13mm bolts and a
couple of bits and pieces) from the car and clean it thorougly with
carburettor cleaner (or thinners or similar) after you have removed the IAC
valve (two Torx screws). Basically, you need to get rid of all the black
soot that will be around the throttle plate and through the air passages.
Using a smallish paintbrush would help.

Don't remove the throttle position sensor (be careful not to get the
cleaning materials in it) or touch the small base idle screw (may have a
green cap on it) as both of these are adjustable but generally should not be
touched as they gererally don't need adjustment and they are a pain to set
up.

Once you are satisfied that it is clean, you need to apply a couple of drops
of oil (even WD40 or similar will do) on the throttle shafts as they pass
through the throttle body whilst at the same time physically (but gently!)
moving the throttle plate to let the oil seep down into the throttle shafts.
The reason for doing this is that the cleaning fluid dries the seals and
shafts and lubrication helps to prevent wear.

> Since I decided to put a new IAC valve (no shortcuts) , can you guide me
> through the reset procedure and any precautions I must take to do this
> right, please
> (it may take a few days before I will be able to buy and fix this valve)

You may not need to replace it, as usually the IAC gets jammed by all the
soot around it and the air passage and it throws a code 35. In any event you
must carry out the above procedure to do it properly whether you replace the
IAC or decide to clean it.

When you clean the IAC you must make sure that you only clean the end of the
pintle (the pointy bit) very gently until all the soot is removed but do not
move the pintle in or out and do not get any cleaning agent up the shaft and
into the housing.

If you choose to replace the IAC then only make sure you don't move the
pintle in or out.

When fitting the IAC back in the throttle body make sure the "O" ring is in
place and that the electrical connector is facing the right way.

Once everything is clean and bolted back together (don't forget to connect
_all_ the vacuum hoses) you are ready for the reset procedure.

Firstly, ignition off, remove the engine fuse for 30 seconds and then put it
back in. At this point the ECU forgets everything including the position of
the IAC pintle and it has to do a relearn.

Start the car and hold the revs at 2000 rpm for about 30 seconds. At this
stage the ECU moves the IAC pintle in and out and back in and finds it's
position.

Once 30 seconds are up, gently let the engine return to idle. With some
luck, the engine will idle but it could also stall in which case just
restart until you can get it to idle.

Let it idle for at least 30 seconds in park or neutral. You will probably
hear a change in idle speed as the ECU is adjusting to the desired idle
speed that is preset in the ECU.

Next put the car in drive with your foot on the brake for 30 seconds. Once
again you will usually note a change in idle speed.

Now repeat the above two steps but this time with the A/C switched on.

Return to park and monitor the idle speed. If it sounds a little high or low
don't worry too much as this is a basic relearn procedure and the ECU
continually monitors and fine tunes the desired idle speed over time. Best
thing to do is to got for a drive and see what the idle speed it like upon
return.

If you have any problems after this you may have to do a base idle
adjustment which I can guide you through if really required or if you
cleaned the IAC and didn't replace it you may need a new one after all ;-)

Hope this helps but if you have any questions feel free to ask.

[Or]

Hi Clockmeister,

Thanks for the advice on code 35.
As much as I would like to throw away this Gregorys` book I
cant do it for a very simple reason.
I couldn`t find anything better AND as widely available as
Gregorys`. Can only wish that every corner bookstore would
have a better publications on their shelves....
I promise to throw it to my dog to play with as soon as I
find a better one. :-)
If you know of any better books and where to buy them
please advertise on this group and I`m sure some people will
buy them.

I suspected a faulty IAC valve but because it is in such an
awkward place I didn`t even wanted to think of replacing it.
Looks like I can`t take shortcuts. I will replace it as soon
as I can. (have to buy genuine Holden part - read the most
expensive).
Since I decided to put a new IAC valve (no shortcuts) , can
you guide me through the reset procedure and any precautions
I must take to do this right, please
(it may take a few days before I will be able to buy and fix
this valve)

Your help, time and guidance will be much appreciated.

Regards,

Or









clockmeister wrote:
> "Or" <Orion@rigel.net> wrote in message
> news:4178d8c7@duster.adelaide.on.net...
>
>>Hi,
>>
>>My VP Comy flashes Check Engine warning lamp code 35.
>>There is no code 35 listed in the Gregorys` book.
>
>
> It's an IAC code.
>
>
>>Check Engine warning lamp stays ON as soon as the car reaches normal
>>operating temperature and when it`s left to cool down (engine switched
>>off) it`s back to normal. (lamp OFF)
>>So far I checked : MAT and MAP sensors and coolant temperature sensor and
>>all tests showed they are ok.
>>Also I have noticed that Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is not working as
>>in the Gregory`s book. When I disconnect the IAC valve wiring connector
>>the engine speed _decreases_ instead of going up! I checked this connector
>>with the test lamp and it flashes ok when each terminal is connected to
>>earth.
>>All this doesn`t make sense to me. Flashing code 35 (?) at higher
>>temperature and IAC valve not working all at the same time?
>>
>>Can someone explain to me what the hell is going on ??!?!?
>
>
> Yes, I can explain very well.
>
> First thing to do is dump the Gregory's diagnostics, secondly speak to me
> about diagnosing that IAC fault.
>
> First thing, you need to establish why you are getting the code, and that
> would be because, with 99% certainty, the IAC position requested by the ECU
> isn't being realised by the IAC valve because it's caked up with carbon and
> gets stuck
>
> To fix it, you need top perform a throttle body service and reset procedure
> which I am happy to guide you through if you are prepared to do exactly as I
> suggest. (it's not difficult, but I'm not going to waste my time if you
> think you can skip steps) and there are some important precautions that you
> must take note off.
>
> Regards,
>
> Clockmeister.
>
>
>
>
>
>

[hippo]

Well if it was a Subaru then 35 would be the purge control solenoid. This
is probably no help at all but at least it will give you something else to
check while you wait for a VP relevant response! Cheers

[clockmeister]

"Or" <Orion@rigel.net> wrote in message
news:4178d8c7@duster.adelaide.on.net...
> Hi,
>
> My VP Comy flashes Check Engine warning lamp code 35.
> There is no code 35 listed in the Gregorys` book.

It's an IAC code.

> Check Engine warning lamp stays ON as soon as the car reaches normal
> operating temperature and when it`s left to cool down (engine switched
> off) it`s back to normal. (lamp OFF)
> So far I checked : MAT and MAP sensors and coolant temperature sensor and
> all tests showed they are ok.
> Also I have noticed that Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is not working as
> in the Gregory`s book. When I disconnect the IAC valve wiring connector
> the engine speed _decreases_ instead of going up! I checked this connector
> with the test lamp and it flashes ok when each terminal is connected to
> earth.
> All this doesn`t make sense to me. Flashing code 35 (?) at higher
> temperature and IAC valve not working all at the same time?
>
> Can someone explain to me what the hell is going on ??!?!?

Yes, I can explain very well.

First thing to do is dump the Gregory's diagnostics, secondly speak to me
about diagnosing that IAC fault.

First thing, you need to establish why you are getting the code, and that
would be because, with 99% certainty, the IAC position requested by the ECU
isn't being realised by the IAC valve because it's caked up with carbon and
gets stuck

To fix it, you need top perform a throttle body service and reset procedure
which I am happy to guide you through if you are prepared to do exactly as I
suggest. (it's not difficult, but I'm not going to waste my time if you
think you can skip steps) and there are some important precautions that you
must take note off.

Regards,

Clockmeister.

[Or]

Hi,

My VP Comy flashes Check Engine warning lamp code 35.
There is no code 35 listed in the Gregorys` book.
Check Engine warning lamp stays ON as soon as the car
reaches normal operating temperature and when it`s left to
cool down (engine switched off) it`s back to normal. (lamp OFF)
So far I checked : MAT and MAP sensors and coolant
temperature sensor and all tests showed they are ok.
Also I have noticed that Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is
not working as in the Gregory`s book. When I disconnect the
IAC valve wiring connector the engine speed _decreases_
instead of going up! I checked this connector with the test
lamp and it flashes ok when each terminal is connected to
earth.
All this doesn`t make sense to me. Flashing code 35 (?) at
higher temperature and IAC valve not working all at the same
time?

Can someone explain to me what the hell is going on ??!?!?

Ad@Or

[Clockmeister]

"Or" <Orion@rigel.net> wrote in message
news:418bed03$1@duster.adelaide.on.net...
> Hi Clockmeister,
>
> I set the base idle speed (about 500rpm) to your
> instruction and all looks good.
>
> Thanks again for your help. Will keep an eye on your future
> postings..
>

You're welcome, thanks for the feedback. Sorry I missed this earlier.