View Full Version : problem with painting panel
Ive just repainted a damaged panel on my car and now im having a bit
of a problem and dont know what iam doing wrong. I applied the base
coats and the clear coats just fine, but then the book i have says to
wait 24 hours and rub it back with 1200 wetor dry paper. So thats
what iam trying to do, but as i rub it back rather than going shiny
its just making the clear coat look cloudy and fucked. What on earth
am i doing wrong ? Im doing it just like the book says, with lots of
water going on and what not. I dont want to keep going incase i end
up with the whole panel looking like the section i started rubbing
back.
cheers
James Whitehead
23-12-2004, 01:23 PM
Usually after that you give the thing a cut and polish I thought which then
bought out the shine.
"mav" <kaufman_j@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2v8ks0192nektb1fthivfb70tc4mprfbqp@4ax.com...
> Ive just repainted a damaged panel on my car and now im having a bit
> of a problem and dont know what iam doing wrong. I applied the base
> coats and the clear coats just fine, but then the book i have says to
> wait 24 hours and rub it back with 1200 wetor dry paper. So thats
> what iam trying to do, but as i rub it back rather than going shiny
> its just making the clear coat look cloudy and fucked. What on earth
> am i doing wrong ? Im doing it just like the book says, with lots of
> water going on and what not. I dont want to keep going incase i end
> up with the whole panel looking like the section i started rubbing
> back.
> cheers
veritas
23-12-2004, 01:33 PM
mav wrote:
> Ive just repainted a damaged panel on my car and now im having a bit
> of a problem and dont know what iam doing wrong. I applied the base
> coats and the clear coats just fine, but then the book i have says to
> wait 24 hours and rub it back with 1200 wetor dry paper. So thats
> what iam trying to do, but as i rub it back rather than going shiny
> its just making the clear coat look cloudy and fucked. What on earth
> am i doing wrong ? Im doing it just like the book says, with lots of
> water going on and what not. I dont want to keep going incase i end
> up with the whole panel looking like the section i started rubbing
> back.
Are you sure it is 1200 (wet) grit and not 120 grit.
Perhaps try a finer grit
Wet rub is better and even a little better with soap.
Rub in line, fore and aft (not circles)
Use the recommended rubbing block , and
Lightly rub
Try a cutting paste or cutting polish - this may remove the scratching....
Cheers...
Well i have a tin of cut and pollish but it says not to use it on
clear coat. My book also says the same thing so i havnt been game to
try it.
On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 13:19:36 +1000, "James Whitehead"
<James@whitehead.co.uk> wrote:
>Usually after that you give the thing a cut and polish I thought which then
>bought out the shine.
>
>
>"mav" <kaufman_j@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:2v8ks0192nektb1fthivfb70tc4mprfbqp@4ax.com...
>> Ive just repainted a damaged panel on my car and now im having a bit
>> of a problem and dont know what iam doing wrong. I applied the base
>> coats and the clear coats just fine, but then the book i have says to
>> wait 24 hours and rub it back with 1200 wetor dry paper. So thats
>> what iam trying to do, but as i rub it back rather than going shiny
>> its just making the clear coat look cloudy and fucked. What on earth
>> am i doing wrong ? Im doing it just like the book says, with lots of
>> water going on and what not. I dont want to keep going incase i end
>> up with the whole panel looking like the section i started rubbing
>> back.
>> cheers
>
Brenden Will
23-12-2004, 01:53 PM
Rubbing back with 1200 will give you a dull effect. What essentially
your doing it smoothing the paint surface. After smoothing you buff the
paint. Yes, the clearcoat. If the polish says not to use it on clearcoat
it's because the polish is to coarse. Use a med->fine cut. Fine if the
finish is really smooth prior to buffing. Medium is the surface is 95%
smooth. Machine buff it too. Hand buffing doesn't give the same result.
You can buy a buff kit from autobarn that goes in a normal drill but run
the drill @ medium speed. After youv'e buffed it wax and polish it to
protect the paint.
My experience? I've restored two XB's in 2004. No fun but it's done.
Pics in the links below. In the 2nd pic you can see the gold XB in the
background which is the car pictured in the top link. Both painted in
garages in acrylic.
http://home.iprimus.com.au/bwill/74_XB_fairmont%20001.jpg
http://home.iprimus.com.au/bwill/xbwgns_coupe%20001.jpg
Brenden
mav wrote:
> Ive just repainted a damaged panel on my car and now im having a bit
> of a problem and dont know what iam doing wrong. I applied the base
> coats and the clear coats just fine, but then the book i have says to
> wait 24 hours and rub it back with 1200 wetor dry paper. So thats
> what iam trying to do, but as i rub it back rather than going shiny
> its just making the clear coat look cloudy and fucked. What on earth
> am i doing wrong ? Im doing it just like the book says, with lots of
> water going on and what not. I dont want to keep going incase i end
> up with the whole panel looking like the section i started rubbing
> back.
> cheers
awesome, thanks for the advice. Wish i had a car as nice as those
xb's!
Yeah the cutting compund i have is a course grade one. Ill go get some
finer stuff. I tried a bit of it though on a small patch and it made
it shiny again thankfully. Was panicing there for a sec thinking id
just ruined the whole thing with the sandpaper.
On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 02:50:58 GMT, Brenden Will <brenx@hotmail.com>
wrote:
>Rubbing back with 1200 will give you a dull effect. What essentially
>your doing it smoothing the paint surface. After smoothing you buff the
>paint. Yes, the clearcoat. If the polish says not to use it on clearcoat
>it's because the polish is to coarse. Use a med->fine cut. Fine if the
>finish is really smooth prior to buffing. Medium is the surface is 95%
>smooth. Machine buff it too. Hand buffing doesn't give the same result.
>You can buy a buff kit from autobarn that goes in a normal drill but run
>the drill @ medium speed. After youv'e buffed it wax and polish it to
>protect the paint.
>
>My experience? I've restored two XB's in 2004. No fun but it's done.
>Pics in the links below. In the 2nd pic you can see the gold XB in the
>background which is the car pictured in the top link. Both painted in
>garages in acrylic.
>
>http://home.iprimus.com.au/bwill/74_XB_fairmont%20001.jpg
>http://home.iprimus.com.au/bwill/xbwgns_coupe%20001.jpg
>
>Brenden
>
>mav wrote:
>> Ive just repainted a damaged panel on my car and now im having a bit
>> of a problem and dont know what iam doing wrong. I applied the base
>> coats and the clear coats just fine, but then the book i have says to
>> wait 24 hours and rub it back with 1200 wetor dry paper. So thats
>> what iam trying to do, but as i rub it back rather than going shiny
>> its just making the clear coat look cloudy and fucked. What on earth
>> am i doing wrong ? Im doing it just like the book says, with lots of
>> water going on and what not. I dont want to keep going incase i end
>> up with the whole panel looking like the section i started rubbing
>> back.
>> cheers
cyberhonky
23-12-2004, 02:32 PM
awesome, thanks for the advice. Wish i had a car as nice as those
xb's!
Yeah the cutting compund i have is a course grade one. Ill go get some
finer stuff. I tried a bit of it though on a small patch and it made
it shiny again thankfully. Was panicing there for a sec thinking id
just ruined the whole thing with the sandpaper.
>> cheers[/color][/color]
another trick (once you've gone thru all Brendens advice). If the car is a dark colour, you'll probably see swirl marks from your cutting/polishing exploits when in bright sunlight (looks shithouse). wash the car with brown vinegar (~1 cup) in a bucket of warm water. I was pretty sceptical of it, but one or 2 washes does the biz
OzOne
23-12-2004, 02:53 PM
On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 02:29:27 GMT, mav <kaufman_j@hotmail.com>
scribbled thusly:
>Well i have a tin of cut and pollish but it says not to use it on
>clear coat. My book also says the same thing so i havnt been game to
>try it.
What was the finish like off the gun?
If it's good enough, you won't need to sand.
Oz1...of the 3 twins.
I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you.
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