rrmoving rust under doors big job?

[milo]

g'day,
well the old girl (my xy i dont have a wife yet , any ideas on that one?)
any way, went for rego check,
they made a list, so some of u guys might have a few ideas about

found some holes in the muffler, getting that done on tuesday,
Idler arm, not sure what they ment was wrong with that,
one rear tailight not working? could be just a glob or loose wiring?
and on both sides under the doors need rust removing, need to find a local
pannel beatter?
other than that she was ok
--
milo

[atec]

milo wrote:
> g'day,
> well the old girl (my xy i dont have a wife yet , any ideas on that one?)
> any way, went for rego check,
> they made a list, so some of u guys might have a few ideas about
>
> found some holes in the muffler, getting that done on tuesday,
> Idler arm, not sure what they ment was wrong with that,
would be worn bushes which are cheap , or get another already done , I
wouldnt expect more than $40.00 ? last xf one was about 35$
> one rear tailight not working? could be just a glob or loose wiring?
check with a multi meter I guess

> and on both sides under the doors need rust removing, need to find a local
> pannel beatter?
pull hte upholstry and see whats in the door . you may be able to
effect good repair or at least preparation yourself .
> other than that she was ok

[John_H]

milo wrote:

>
>and on both sides under the doors need rust removing, need to find a local
>pannel beatter?

They're called sill panels.

Probably one of the easiest panel replacement jobs for someone who has
a few basic tools. Or, you could simply hide the rust holes with bog
and fly wire.

--
John H

[Jason James]

"milo" <mrmiloman2003@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:_vWKd.140473$K7.109699@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
>
> g'day,
> well the old girl (my xy i dont have a wife yet , any ideas on that one?)
> any way, went for rego check,
> they made a list, so some of u guys might have a few ideas about
>
> found some holes in the muffler, getting that done on tuesday,
> Idler arm, not sure what they ment was wrong with that,
> one rear tailight not working? could be just a glob or loose wiring?
> and on both sides under the doors need rust removing, need to find a local
> pannel beatter?
> other than that she was ok
> --
> milo

I had an old VH Val which had rustholes you could put an orange thru. If you
are short of money, now is the time to learn how to bog (epoxy filler) your
rust up. Basically, you use a ball-pein hammer to dent the area around the
rust in a few mm. Then electric wire brush the area clean. If there are
holes larger than a 20c piece, you'll need to pack something behind the rust
to stop the uncured bog from falling in. Johnmentioned fly-wire,..or even
cardboard as all it has to do is provide a support while the bog hardens.

Mixing the bog carefully as per instructions will give you 5 minutes for
more of 'shaping time'. Once firm, you can start rasping it to shape or use
a power tool with a suitable abrasive wheel. You prolly need a 2nd pass with
fresh bog to fill in the hollows or use that red surface-filler,..I just
used more bog.

once finished and painted, fish-oil the rear side of the repair to stop more
rust forming. Remove any body plugs which allow water to collect.

Jason

[John_H]

Jason James wrote:

>
>If there are
>holes larger than a 20c piece, you'll need to pack something behind the rust
>to stop the uncured bog from falling in. Johnmentioned fly-wire,..or even
>cardboard as all it has to do is provide a support while the bog hardens.

A bit of reinforcing actually helps prevent prying fingers from poking
through the bogged up area on a later inspection. :)

Another tip is never to wet rub bog prior to painting as it takes in
water which will cause the paint to blister. Bog is polyester resin
BTW (epoxy is way too expensive for a panel shop).

--
John H

[Jason James]

"John_H" <john4271@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ui1rv0tvi91o34kinq45r895d6go738tvc@4ax.com...
> Jason James wrote:
>
> >
> >If there are
> >holes larger than a 20c piece, you'll need to pack something behind the
rust
> >to stop the uncured bog from falling in. Johnmentioned fly-wire,..or even
> >cardboard as all it has to do is provide a support while the bog hardens.
>
> A bit of reinforcing actually helps prevent prying fingers from poking
> through the bogged up area on a later inspection. :)
>
> Another tip is never to wet rub bog prior to painting as it takes in
> water which will cause the paint to blister. Bog is polyester resin
> BTW (epoxy is way too expensive for a panel shop).
>
> --
> John H

Yes they are good ideas. The flywire will become part of the repair giving
it more strength. That story about one inspector using a screwdriver was a
worry I remember. Fortunately, never happened to my bog-jobs!

Jason