Re: how to save petrol on a V8

[deXX]

thanx everyone for the replies, think i forgot to mention that i'm a
mechnical idiot and had no idea what half of the things suggested are. but i
get the general feeling that i was going to make a bigger mistake that i
expected. sooo, i'm probably not gonna touch that car and look for something
with a V6 and maybe just 350 holly extractor (hope i got that right). it'd
probably be just the normal FJ40 with a reconditioned engine in it.

eventually of course, slowly i will start doing things to it like make it
LPG and other mods to it, but it's really a car that i'd be keeping rather
then thinking of having to sell it at a later date.

also, how good are reconditioned engines? i think the stock standard is a V6
inline

[Graham W]

deXX wrote:
> also, how good are reconditioned engines?

How long is a piece of string?

> i think the stock standard is a V6 inline

Make up your mind. V6 or inline 6?

BTW, it's an inline 6.

[Patrick Young]

deXX wrote:

> thanx everyone for the replies, think i forgot to mention that i'm a
> mechnical idiot and had no idea what half of the things suggested are. but i
> get the general feeling that i was going to make a bigger mistake that i

Any 4x4 is going to need looking after. That said, the older more
traditional types such as older LandCruisers are an *excellent* way
to gain mechanical skills, so don't shitecan the idea. If you have a
friend with mechanical knowledge (and you are young) Learn - lots
of fun. If you are new to driving be carefull though. Check anything
you don't understand with a heavier vehicle as they can do a lot of
damage to others and their property (that includes Falcadores too).

Don't think petrol is something you need, btw - it is evil and
dangerous. Diesel and LPG are better fuel alternatives - give them
a thought.

> eventually of course, slowly i will start doing things to it like make it
> LPG and other mods to it, but it's really a car that i'd be keeping rather
> then thinking of having to sell it at a later date.

You are on the right track. If you wish to customize your vehicle as
you want it, and do a good job, you won't want to sell it.

> also, how good are reconditioned engines? i think the stock standard is a V6
> inline

As good as the person who reconditioned them and the parts (re)used. I'd
start off with a good stock vehicle with a good maintenance history.

[deXX]

thanx patrick,

i've been driving light commercial vehicles for many years so that's not
gonna be a big issue at all. and i do have a friend that has his own tools
and is good with putting cars together i think. so yea, i'm definately going
to be learning alot from him and it's going to be cheaper for me as well cos
then i either buy the parts from the wreckers or the retail stores and add
them on.

biggest cost i think is going to be for me is the spray painting of it after
all else is done. cos i guess i'd do it properly and get it sprayed inside
too... and i heard that was somewhere around $1500.

unless anyone here knows someone that will paint a car cheap with 2 pack
paint around the brisbane goldcoast area?

"Patrick Young" <patrick@hilux.ace.unsw.EDU.AU> wrote in message
news:2veev4F2lkhdrU1@uni-berlin.de...
> deXX wrote:
>
> > thanx everyone for the replies, think i forgot to mention that i'm a
> > mechnical idiot and had no idea what half of the things suggested are.
but i
> > get the general feeling that i was going to make a bigger mistake that i
>
> Any 4x4 is going to need looking after. That said, the older more
> traditional types such as older LandCruisers are an *excellent* way
> to gain mechanical skills, so don't shitecan the idea. If you have a
> friend with mechanical knowledge (and you are young) Learn - lots
> of fun. If you are new to driving be carefull though. Check anything
> you don't understand with a heavier vehicle as they can do a lot of
> damage to others and their property (that includes Falcadores too).
>
> Don't think petrol is something you need, btw - it is evil and
> dangerous. Diesel and LPG are better fuel alternatives - give them
> a thought.
>
> > eventually of course, slowly i will start doing things to it like make
it
> > LPG and other mods to it, but it's really a car that i'd be keeping
rather
> > then thinking of having to sell it at a later date.
>
> You are on the right track. If you wish to customize your vehicle as
> you want it, and do a good job, you won't want to sell it.
>
> > also, how good are reconditioned engines? i think the stock standard is
a V6
> > inline
>
> As good as the person who reconditioned them and the parts (re)used. I'd
> start off with a good stock vehicle with a good maintenance history.

[D Walford]

deXX wrote:
>
> thanx everyone for the replies, think i forgot to mention that i'm a
> mechnical idiot and had no idea what half of the things suggested are. but i
> get the general feeling that i was going to make a bigger mistake that i
> expected. sooo, i'm probably not gonna touch that car and look for something
> with a V6 and maybe just 350 holly extractor (hope i got that right). it'd
> probably be just the normal FJ40 with a reconditioned engine in it.
>
> eventually of course, slowly i will start doing things to it like make it
> LPG and other mods to it, but it's really a car that i'd be keeping rather
> then thinking of having to sell it at a later date.
>
> also, how good are reconditioned engines? i think the stock standard is a V6
> inline

Its either in-line or a V6, they are 2 very different things.
The stock engine in an FJ40 is an in line 6cyl of approx 4.0lts.
If you haven't already bought the car I suggest you only look at those
already fitted with LPG, even with the stock engine they are very
thirsty.
With your apparent lack of mechanical knowledge I suggest that unless
you intend to do some serious off roading you should stay away from old
4WD's, they can soak up money faster than the Tax Office.
I had one for about 5 yrs but I'm a mechanic and was able to do all of
my own repairs which saved me a small fortune, unless you can find one
on LPG in near perfect condition just forget it.




Daryl

[Albm&ctd]

On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 07:03:31 +1000, "deXX"
<leadfist@NOSPAMmailcan.com> wrote:

>unless anyone here knows someone that will paint a car cheap with 2 pack
>paint around the brisbane goldcoast area?
>
Why not just use industrial spraying enamel, fast dry and ideal to
scratch or is this going to be a BIG GAY KNOB SUCKER 4WD? Find someone
with a property, make sure the wind is blowing stirring up dust and
spray the fukker yourself for less that $200 in materials. Make sure
you wear a protective mask and you are some distance from other
vehicles, people etc.

Al
2004 insult page awaits your contribution
http://kwakakid.cjb.net/insult.html
eg: I own a Lada so coppers can keep up.

[Patrick Young]

D Walford wrote:

> With your apparent lack of mechanical knowledge I suggest that unless
> you intend to do some serious off roading you should stay away from old
> 4WD's, they can soak up money faster than the Tax Office.
> I had one for about 5 yrs but I'm a mechanic and was able to do all of
> my own repairs which saved me a small fortune, unless you can find one
> on LPG in near perfect condition just forget it.

While good advice, I think that is a bit harsh. Everyone needs something
they can learn on.

I expect in the case of the OP, "what needs fixed" will become "what can
I make better". He is asking the right questions, and found the right
group :-)

Sure, for the average punter who wants A->B with no hassle you are
totally correct.

[Patrick Young]

Albm&ctd wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 07:03:31 +1000, "deXX"
> <leadfist@NOSPAMmailcan.com> wrote:
>
>>unless anyone here knows someone that will paint a car cheap with 2 pack
>>paint around the brisbane goldcoast area?
>>
>
> Why not just use industrial spraying enamel, fast dry and ideal to
> scratch or is this going to be a BIG GAY KNOB SUCKER 4WD? Find someone

40 series SWB is hardly "BIG". The Lada would fit that _just_ fine, Al
:-)

Seriously, 2 pak is the only thing I will use, but not give further
details to the OP as it can be done at home, but really not for
beginners.

> with a property, make sure the wind is blowing stirring up dust and
> spray the fukker yourself for less that $200 in materials. Make sure
> you wear a protective mask and you are some distance from other
> vehicles, people etc.

Seen it done. The paint comes off in flakes. Enamel is something you
put on the little plates that disclose your house number :-)

[D Walford]

Patrick Young wrote:
>
> D Walford wrote:
>
> > With your apparent lack of mechanical knowledge I suggest that unless
> > you intend to do some serious off roading you should stay away from old
> > 4WD's, they can soak up money faster than the Tax Office.
> > I had one for about 5 yrs but I'm a mechanic and was able to do all of
> > my own repairs which saved me a small fortune, unless you can find one
> > on LPG in near perfect condition just forget it.
>
> While good advice, I think that is a bit harsh. Everyone needs something
> they can learn on.

They aren't difficult to work on for someone with basic skills but there
are many other vehicles that would be more suitable as a learning tool.
>

Daryl

[Albm&ctd]

On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 23:27:26 +1100, Patrick Young
<patrick@hilux.ace.unsw.EDU.AU> wrote:

>Albm&ctd wrote:
>> On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 07:03:31 +1000, "deXX"
>> <leadfist@NOSPAMmailcan.com> wrote:
>>
>>>unless anyone here knows someone that will paint a car cheap with 2 pack
>>>paint around the brisbane goldcoast area?
>>>
>>
>> Why not just use industrial spraying enamel, fast dry and ideal to
>> scratch or is this going to be a BIG GAY KNOB SUCKER 4WD? Find someone
>
>40 series SWB is hardly "BIG". The Lada would fit that _just_ fine, Al
>:-)
>
>Seriously, 2 pak is the only thing I will use, but not give further
>details to the OP as it can be done at home, but really not for
>beginners.
>
>> with a property, make sure the wind is blowing stirring up dust and
>> spray the fukker yourself for less that $200 in materials. Make sure
>> you wear a protective mask and you are some distance from other
>> vehicles, people etc.
>
>Seen it done. The paint comes off in flakes. Enamel is something you
>put on the little plates that disclose your house number :-)

2 pack is deadly. I refused to spray it without a booth and all the
correct protective gear. In fact most open air spraying is illegal in
suburbia so it would be wise to consult council regarding it's
requirements.
Isocyanates can be added to normal spraying enamel to harden faster
but I prefer without, air dry, and I use a twin cartridge respirator
to protect myself. I've done quite a bit of spray painting over the
past 20 years with industrial enamels (I won't count the 10 years
before that because I wasn't very good at it :-), spraying enamels and
acrylic and with proper surface preparation, never had enamel peel off
or any other paint for that matter. If you spray over grease and crap,
well that's just wasting your time. Even handprints after surface
preparation can **** it up and there alway seems to be some arseh*le
that will come up and rub the surface with their greasy hands just to
see if it's smooth!!!!
I've seen so called professionals spray painters spray truck chassis
and it washes off in peels with the next high pressure clean but they
grab the money and run when it's all nice and shiny. Spraying enamel
is the easiest to get a shine straight off the gun although industrial
spraying enamels tend to fade fast and don't have such a high lustre
to begin with. How I cured this on my old Dodge was to do it once
every two years, didn't even bother to polish it in between, when
faded rub down, prime the bare metal I'd rubbed into and then just
mask with newspaper (cheap) and spray with ordinary spraying enamel,
no isocyanate hardener for health reasons. After rubbing down the
previous day, I would start in the morning masking and the whole job
would be done at around lunchtime, then hope like shit it didn't rain
for the next few hours, so you need a desert too :-) Clouds tend to
gather just as you put on the top coat and if it did rain then all the
fukken locals could say was 'we needed the rain'. The worst rotten
arseho*e you will ever meet after spraying enamel topcoat is the one
who leans against the vehicle so you have to stand guard with a tyre
lever for a few hours at least.. and tie up the dog with it's wagging
tail. You may need a cattle prodder too. Killer bees in great numbers
seem to like bright yellow :-) Larger insects seem to be able to crawl
for about 150mm before they get stuck. Embedded insects and dust are
good for discouraging dimwits from saying 'you can do mine next,
maayyte'. This same dimwit will scrutine the paintwork for the
tiniest blemish and tell you about it even though their only painting
experience was a fence with lumpy paint strained through a sock. Tell
them to **** *ff.
You need a large open area away from humans and other vehicles as
spraying enamel travels quite some distance and tends to stick unlike
acrylic lacquer that settles as dust over a few metres.
I helped prepare a 4WD as above many years ago, painted GAY purple, a
good job, rather expensive and the young bloke owner went and rolled
it. Lucky it was a hardtop, he survived. What a waste of time, effort
and paint.
GAY 4WD is when the $$paint$$ is too nice to scratch :-)
Toyota is taller and heavier than Gorbie Lada so it can be referred to
as BIG. Gorbie still has original paint, faded, scratched and crazed,
the way a 4WD should be.
If I do respray it, it will get spraying enamel.. over the hail dents
too.

Looks above.. fark, look what you made me do.. Patrick.

Al
2004 insult page awaits your contribution
http://kwakakid.cjb.net/insult.html
eg: I own a Lada so coppers can keep up.

[Patrick Young]

Albm&ctd wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 23:27:26 +1100, Patrick Young
> <patrick@hilux.ace.unsw.EDU.AU> wrote:
>
>>Albm&ctd wrote:
>>
>>>On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 07:03:31 +1000, "deXX"
>>><leadfist@NOSPAMmailcan.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>unless anyone here knows someone that will paint a car cheap with 2 pack
>>>>paint around the brisbane goldcoast area?
>>>>
>>>Why not just use industrial spraying enamel, fast dry and ideal to
>>>scratch or is this going to be a BIG GAY KNOB SUCKER 4WD? Find someone
>>
>>40 series SWB is hardly "BIG". The Lada would fit that _just_ fine, Al
>>:-)
>>
>>Seriously, 2 pak is the only thing I will use, but not give further
>>details to the OP as it can be done at home, but really not for
>>beginners.
>>
>>>with a property, make sure the wind is blowing stirring up dust and
>>>spray the fukker yourself for less that $200 in materials. Make sure
>>>you wear a protective mask and you are some distance from other
>>>vehicles, people etc.
>>
>>Seen it done. The paint comes off in flakes. Enamel is something you
>>put on the little plates that disclose your house number :-)
>
>
> 2 pack is deadly. I refused to spray it without a booth and all the
> correct protective gear. In fact most open air spraying is illegal in
> suburbia so it would be wise to consult council regarding it's
> requirements.

Yep, not something you could get away with.

> Isocyanates can be added to normal spraying enamel to harden faster
> but I prefer without, air dry, and I use a twin cartridge respirator

Absolutely essential - don't leave the repirators about though. I've
had 2 (two) go AWOL and they are not cheap :-( and it is rare that I
need to spray this stuff. It lasts a looooong time done properly.
There are still years old cans in the basement.

> before that because I wasn't very good at it :-), spraying enamels and
> acrylic and with proper surface preparation, never had enamel peel off
> or any other paint for that matter. If you spray over grease and crap,

Enamel is better, acrylic uses any excuse unless clear coated. Proper
surface preparation of course involves the removal of existing paint -
otherwise it is only going to be as good as the existing paint (2 pak
is in that category too).

I've also noted that enamel can be a bit porous. Properly spray and
prepare bare metal, leave it outside for a couple of years and rust
tends to migrate through it.

> well that's just wasting your time. Even handprints after surface
> preparation can **** it up and there alway seems to be some arseh*le
> that will come up and rub the surface with their greasy hands just to
> see if it's smooth!!!!

LOL!

> grab the money and run when it's all nice and shiny. Spraying enamel
> is the easiest to get a shine straight off the gun although industrial

2 pak will too.

> You need a large open area away from humans and other vehicles as
> spraying enamel travels quite some distance and tends to stick unlike
> acrylic lacquer that settles as dust over a few metres.

Yup, tell me about it.

> I helped prepare a 4WD as above many years ago, painted GAY purple, a
> good job, rather expensive and the young bloke owner went and rolled

Eek!. Almost as bad as the pink pickup on the "Simple life (2)". Purple
is better rolled a few times.

> Toyota is taller and heavier than Gorbie Lada so it can be referred to
> as BIG. Gorbie still has original paint, faded, scratched and crazed,
> the way a 4WD should be.

If galvanealled underneath OK - if you live by the ocean that might not
be an option.

> Looks above.. fark, look what you made me do.. Patrick.

Ooops, sorry :-)

2 pak is kinda good the way it sticks like shite to a blanket. Many
years ago I painted up the front plastic fender of my friend's dirt
bike (using the 2pak plastic additive). You can bend that fender
any which way and the paint stays put to this day.